Ayse took us to the Asian side on Saturday -- Frances and Ray attended an art class run by her younger brother, Baris, while we explored the giant Carrefour mall. It's like Costco on steroids. People don't buy in bulk, but the variety is tremendous. And virtually everything, except the bananas (Ecuador) and the coconuts (called Hindi nuts) come from Turkey. You would be hard pressed to find bacon (sorry, NC producers) but there are lamb brains, intestines, feet, tails, livers, kidneys and stomachs, plus beef, chicken and "Hindi," i.e. turkey. The liquor on display is Yeni Raki, "New Raki," the anise-firewater. We had to return home over the First Bosphorus Bridge, in the traffic that is as much a part of today's Istanbul as the ruins and the mosques... 
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